I stayed in Taipei for 6 days. I wish it had been longer because 6 days was not enough to cover all the attractions in the city, nor make any day trips outside of the city. I was on an extended stopover and really should have devoted at least 2 weeks to the country. But I wanted to at least see some of Taipei before it’s too late, so used the brief window I had on a stopover.
I loved Taipei. It is one of the most under-rated major cities I have been to. Here is the run-down on Taipei:
Pros of Travelling in Taipei:
- Food. Taipei is a foodiest delight. The whole culture revolves around food. You can find any kind of food from fine cuisine to street food in one of the many night markets. Chinese food is the obvious focus, especially the famous beef noodles. Although I am not a big noodle guy, I had the pleasure of eating the beef noodles at restaurant which won the annual Beef Noodle competition! You can also find a huge selection of Japanese restaurants. As you can imagine, there are Bubble Tea shops everywhere – Bubble Tea originated in Taiwan. Taiwan is also famous for so-called “Stinky Tofu”. One day I was walking along the street and past a street food stall which stunk to high heavan. I thought, that must stinky tofu ;-).
- Night markets. Speaking of food, you can get all kinds of cheap and yummy street food at one of the many night markets in Taipei.
- Mix of old and new. Taipei is a modern city. You have the most modern transport system in a city which is a major tech hub and the world’s largest microchip producer. It has an iconic skyscraper in Taipei 101, in its day one of the world’s tallest buildings. Juxtaposed against this modernity, Taipei maintains its original charm with temples, gardens, old-school neighbourhoods and street markets proliferating.
- People. The people are incredibly polite and kind. They are very well-behaved and (despite the language barrier) did their best to help me.
- Cost. Prices are very reasonably by European standards. Eating out is quite cheap.
- Transport. Taipei has a very efficient and comprehensive transport system. Taiwan is a very walkable city, but you will need to take public transport at some time. You can buy a prepaid card (called the “Easycard” and use it for all modes of transport – metro and bus. You can also make purchases using the card in convenience stores like 7 Eleven.
- Festivals. There are all kinds of amazing festivals all year round. I happened to visit during the annual Lantern Festival, which is a smaller version of the official festival held in another city.
- Cleanliness. Taipei is very clean. Much cleaner than most Asian cities. It reminded me of Japan, where they have people cleaning the streets with these long tweezers or tongs to pick up even the most minute piece of rubbish.
Cons of travelling in Taipei
- Language. Not many people speak English. Enough people speak in in restaurants, so I rarely had to get out Google Translate. But due to the language barrier, I didn’t break out many spontaneously conversations with people on the street. Which leads to:
- Hard to meet people. The combination of the language barrier and the fact that the people are quite reserved, meant that I had few interactions with the locals. As I was a solo traveller and a bit over hostels, I chose to stay at the Citizen M hotel. It’s a European chain and my favourite hotel in the world. It’s usually great for solo travellers because each hotel has a cool bar and lounge area where guests can hang out and mingle. But even here, the local guests kept pretty much to themselves, not even mingling with other Taiwanese guests.
- Political situation. Taiwan is a thriving independent democratic country. That is very much at threat at the time of writing and could put some people off travelling to Taiwan, which would be a great shame.
Things to do in Taipei
Chiang Kai Shek Memorial
This is the most important monument in Taiwan. It’s a monument to Chiang Kai Shek, the Taiwanese national hero and founder of modern-day Taiwan. It is a moment to him and his shrine.
Actually, he was pretty much a tyrant. His Nationalist KMT party controlled much of China, but was eventually forced off the mainland to Taiwan by Mao’s Communists in 1949. Much of this was his own doing. He started the rift with Communists by massacring a bunch of them in his “Shanghai Purge”. A combination of economic mismanagement and corruption lead to the Communists gaining ground in the rural areas and using effect guerilla tactics.
Although he is considered the founder of modern Taiwan, the Memorial is controversial. Some see it as honouring authoritarianism, as he ruled with an iron fist as the military dictator from 1949 to his death in 1975. Under his rule, Taiwan emerged as an economic superpower. His reign was marked by the “White Terror” in which thousands of alleged communist sympathisers were tortured and executed.
The Memorial itself consists of exhibition halls made of marble. There are 89 steps to the main hall (the age Chiang was when he died). Inside there is a bronze statue of Chiang. It is located in Liberty Square, a major site for public events and protests.
Taipei 101
It has 101 stories and was the tallest building in the world from 2004 to 2010. These days it doesn’t even rate in the top ten any more, being long since surpassed by skyscrapers in China you never heard of. The tower mimics the form of a bamboo stalk – a traditional symbol of resilience and growth in Chinese culture.
There are 2 observatories on the 89th (indoor) and 91st (outdoor) floors, affording spectacular views of the city. You can choose to go during the day when it is not so crowded, or in the evening for the night views. I went about 4pm to get the best of both worlds and it was great to see the sun going down over the city.
There is a posh shopping mall at the bottom and also an excellent food court and supermarket on the bottom floors.
Beitou Hot springs
Beitou is a hot spring located in the north part of Taipei. It is easily reachable by public transport. There is a small park with a library. Around the park, you can find fancy hotels with private springs alongside public baths. Taiwan was occupied by the Japanese between 1895 and 1945, who introduced onsen culture to Taiwan. The Japanese developed the area into a resort and therapeutic resort.
It’s a relaxing getaway from the stress and craziness of the city. I went to a traditional Japanese onsen. Men and women were separated. It was very basic. You had a small shower area to wash yourself before getting in the water. You need to bring your own towel, but then hang it somewhere. It’s for drying yourself, not covering your private parts. Asian cultures are often much more open to nudity, e.g. Japan, and they grow up with the onsen culture. So, if you are prudish and uncomfortable being naked in publich, best to avoid a traditional onsen and go to a child-friendly hot spring where swimwear is mandatory.
Night Markets
Taiwan is famous for its amazing nicht markets selling cheap and tasty Taiwanese street food. There are many to choose from and you have to do your research and choose the right market for you. Some markets are much larger than others and have certain characteristics.
The best markets include Shilin Night Market, the largest and most famous, known for fried chicken and stinky tofe; Raohe Street Night Market, famous for black pepper buns, and; Ningxia Night Market, which specialises in Oyster Vermicelli
Lungshang Temple
I visited Lungshang Temple as part of a walking tour. The temple is very impressive having several elaborately decorated gates and sculptured gardens. It was a week day during the day, but the temple was quite full of worshippers.
The temple was founded in 1738 by Han immigrants. It is a multi-faith place of worship dedicated to the Buddhist Deity, Guanyin, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. In addition to Buddhism, Taoism and Chinese Folk Religions are also practised there. People pray for luck with exams, the health of their family and even success in dating! Today, it functions as cultural landmark, a tourist attraction, a place of community and cultural gathering, and; a spiritual hub.
Taipei Lantern Festival
Taiwan has so many amazing festivals, be sure to catch at least one while you are here. I was fortunate enough to catch the annual Taipei Lantern festival. It started literally the day I arrived and was to mark the end of the Lunar New Year. This year’s theme was the Year of the Snake. For more on the festival and my photo gallery, click here.
Other attractions:
- Huashan 1914 Creative Park. It’s a sprawling arts center with trendy cafes, exhibitions and shops selling crafts and contemporary media, like manga/anime (another heavy Japanese influence in Taipei).
- The National Palace Museum. This is the most famous museum in Taiwan and hosts one of the biggest collection of Chinese artifacts in the world. The collection was originally housed in the Forbidden City in Beijing and was gathered over the course of 1000 years by various dynasties. Many of the treasures were brought to Taiwan during World War Two for safekeeping.
- Excursions. There are plenty to choose from. Here are a few of the best: Juifin (stunning mountain town with narrow alleys, teahouses, and Japanese-era architecture); Tamsui, a laid-back coastal town famous for its Fisherman’s Wharf.
Politics
Usually I avoid discussing politics with locals unless they raise the topic with me first and show an interest in sharing and engaging with foreigners. The walking tour I took an historic tour of old neighbourhoods, finishing at the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial. Our guide told us a bit about the history of the last decades since the formation of Taiwan up to present day. One of the participants asked about how people think about the current situation. Are they afraid. He said no, most people live in denial that an invastion will ever happen. I guess it’s a type of coping mechanism – a stoic way of not reacting emotionally to things that are out of your control.
On the other hand, you can’t just stick your head in the sand and hope that things will work out fine. Taiwan is ramping up its defenses and has increased the length of compulsory military service.
I am just happy I got to experience this charming and intriguing country before it’s possibly too late. Who knows what will happen in this crazy mixed up world. I hope that the plucky people of Taiwan manage to maintain their independence and not go down the same way as Hong Kong. Only time will tell.
